DAY FIFTEEN: Penistone to Youlgrave (22 June 2021)
Distance: 52 km (25 miles)
Ascent: 780 m
Legs: Despite the amount of ascent this was a relaxed and short day which allowed the legs to recover
Arriving at today's campsite just south of Youlgrave I am looking forward to a hot shower and shave as I had rather snobbishly refused yesterday's scruffy offering. This is the first of three Camping and Caravanning Club sites on the return leg and I am again presented with manicured lawns in an idyllic setting. At reception I am met and given a map and told where I can empty my toilet. "You have toilet facilities don't you" the lady at reception asks as I stand by my bike with its trailer. I say yes reasonably confidently but don't go into the detail that those facilities consist of a black plastic water bottle with a wide neck brought for such an occasion. I go to my pitch which is basically anywhere on a field on the far side of the camp.
But I am jumping ahead. Last night I had noted the forecast was for a 7 degree centigrade night temperature and in four layers enjoyed a good sleep in what remained of my tent. Today I skirt the eastern edge of the Derbyshire peaks so life is easier and I make use of the low mileage to have a long early lunch at a community cafe where I charge my phone, Then later, another coffee and bakewell tart in, you guessed it, Bakewell. The community cafe waitress is intrigued by my bike and trailer and I am refining the description of the London-Richmond-London journey. Bakewell itself feels too touristy after the minor roads and small villages, but that is just what Bakewell is and I am happy to find a spot where I can park my bike and relax outdoors with a drink. I chat to a retired couple from Lichfield who are out for the day. When I say I am from London they are quick to comment "... of course you haven't cycled from there?". That is my cue to provide the full itinerary and they are mightily impressed.
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| Morning view from my Penistone accommodation |
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| Reservoir near Penistone |
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| I feel tired just looking at the hills |
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| A curlew |
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| What a vista! |
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| Great roads and not a car in sight |
Youlgrave has something of an identity crisis as the map and other other local sites use the spelling "Youlgreave" though I guess we know what we mean.
On the approach to Youlgrave, and for miles around, you see its dominant church tower. I am no expert but it does draw your attention. So much so that I take the sharp left into the church grounds as if pulled in by a large magnet. Chatting to the man weeding the paths I learn that the church is in the list of the top one hundred most distinguished churches or some similar list and has features such as a stained glass window brought back from Ypres in memory of a brother who died in the war.
- Pack dry Pasta (x4)
- Pack noodles (x3)
- Biscuits (x2)
- Broccoli (x1)
- Tin Mackerel fillets (x3)
- Tin tuna (x1)
- Tin beans with sausages (x1)
£19 for three days food and it is a sad reflection that this most basic and uninspiring set of camping store cupboard staples is preferable to the standard pub meals that are served in the UK. As I learnt earlier Youlgrave has an annual well dressing though this year it is a very distanced affair with people presenting their wares but without the gathering.
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| Youlgrave well dressing |
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| Youlgrave |
Traveling alone has its minor challenges such as grocery shopping where you need to have your bike and belongings secured at a campsite before venturing out or finding small shops where you can keep an eye on your bike outside.
On my way back from Youlgrave I decided on a morning walk as tomorrow is a short day and I pick out some candidate paths. As I approach the campsite I chat to a dog walker and former park ranger. When he discovers I am cycling he mentions the Monsal Trail which goes from Bakewell to Buxton through dis-used railway tunnels. I am tempted to retrace my steps to try it out; this is feasible though I would lose my rest day. My dog walker is keen to talk about the village and it is an increasingly common tale of a village close to having its shops close before being taken over, expanding and now doing a brisk trade.
Day 16: Youlgrave to Ashbourne
